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1. Struggles to walk without being dragged along
2. Won’t leave their dog alone if at all possible
3. Their back yard looks like Alcatraz
4. Inability to see white hairs on clothes or furniture
5. Has a wholesale amount of leads and harnesses
6. Prays for winter and gets annoyed by summer
7. Owns almost exclusively walking clothes
8. Thinks ‘off-lead’ is a rude word
9. Takes offence to anyone suggesting any dog is a wolf
10. Cannot see a husky without saying hello!

Sorry folks, but one of the most popular, most recommended and most effective dog grooming brushes of all time can actually do serious harm to your dog’s coat.

Unfortunately the traditional Furminator isn’t all that good when it comes to any double-coated breeds. Many report that they shouldn’t be used on Siberian Huskies what so ever. We’ll leave that decision for each individual, what is critical however, is that if you do choose to use a Furminator, that you choose the correct version.

The long-coat version would be arguably the best of a questionable-bunch, although we’d strongly recommend considering their Furminator Rake instead.

What are the other options?

The Furminator range certainly isn’t the only grooming brand to consider. Mikki, in particular, is one of our favourites. The following products from Mikki are always in our grooming arsenal:

Mikki Grooming Anti-tangle Undercoat Rake

Learn More: http://amzn.to/2tE8cJ0

Mikki Pro Slicker Dog Brush

Learn More: http://amzn.to/2tnVN0L

Mikki Hard Pin Slicker for Thick Coats

Learn More: http://amzn.to/2tEf1ul

Mikki Combi Brush

Learn More: http://amzn.to/2uAr5Rq

Mikki Shedding Blade

Learn More: http://amzn.to/2tojaHk

Anything else?

Of course, if you have a non-double-coated breed, then the standard Furminator is a great option. Click here to find out more.

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Finding dog-safe cleaning products can be a nightmare, and made even worse when dealing with Siberian Huskies – their sensitive nature (especially their stomachs) means any change in environment has the potential for a negative effect (or bowel movement). So, we’ve put together a quick list of our absolute favourites, for all of your cleaning needs:

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Bubble Gum Fragrance Pet / Kennel Disinfectant & Deodoriser

This multi-purpose kennel cleaner smells absolutely divine and has endless uses. Indoor, outdoor, diluted or used neat – this stuff can handle the most stubborn stains and odours. Our particular favourite uses are used to clean the patio, or in a handy spray-bottle for cleaning up any small accidents in the house.

More Info: http://amzn.to/2tn2Mad

Pet Head Dry Clean Waterless Spray Shampoo

Your dogs not keen on a bath? No, ours neither. Whilst a full bathing is occasionally the only solution, most of the time a quick once-over with a pet-specific dry shampoo is all that’s needed. And if we’re honest, they often smell better after using this than they do a full bath!

More Info: http://amzn.to/2vyE9Up

Leucillin Antiseptic Skin Care

Leucillin antiseptic skin care spray is a highly versatile first, anti-bacterial, anti-viral and anti-fungal spray, suitable for use on all mammalian animals. (That means dogs too!) Quoted as out-performing all similar products killing 99.99999% of germs on contact, whilst remaining pH neutral and non-toxic.

It’s our favourite go-to for those pet emergencies, and we all know how little cuts can occur when huskies get excited! A must-have in the cupboard for sure!

More Info: http://amzn.to/2veOaa5

Favourite Dog Shampoos

There was no way we could select just a single shampoo to suggest here, so we’ve gone for all those that have been useful from time to time.

Shampoo for Dogs with Sensitive or Itchy Skin

Unfortunately some dogs are just a bit too sensitive for regular shampoo options. Fortunately, there’s now a solution for that. We will say, in the interest of transparency, that this is the only item in the list that we haven’t tried ourselves – for a lack of needing to that is, but we’ve heard very very good things from those with more sensitive pups.

More Info: http://amzn.to/2tCWSwL

Animology Fox Poo Shampoo

If you’re lucky enough to have a dog that’s dissinterested in fox poop then count your blessings and feel free to move on. For the rest of us however, we now have a solution – well, a remedy. This shampoo is unlikely to stop your dog rolling in it in the first place – but thankfully it gets rid of that awful smell pretty sharpish.

More Info: http://amzn.to/2vyCgXO

Animology Flea and Tick Shampoo

We should probably make it clear that this product probably shouldb’t be used if you think your dog has a tick, but as a treatment for fleas or a preventative for ticks – it works a treat. We always wash our huskies down with this stuff before a trip to rural locations.

More Info: http://amzn.to/2vyJlru

Animology White Wash Dog Shampoo

All-white Sibe owners out there will know how difficult they are to keep clean. It doesn’t matter what you’ll do they’ll always be a little on the beige side. That is, until now. This white wash shampoo really works wonders on white fur. We’ve been known to use it on the under-sides of our multi-coloured pups too!

More Info: http://amzn.to/2vyJzPm

Think we’ve missed something?

Let us know via our Facebook page or in the comments section below!

It’s a question we see asked on Bikejor and dog-sledding community groups year-round. And the honest answer is, any! Well…kind of.

Giving someone the answer to the question of what bike they should buy to bikejor their dog with a single answer/link to a specific bike is very likely just, wrong. It doesn’t matter if they have an unlimited budget, what works for one person, certainly isn’t ideal for another. So, given the apparent difficulty of properly answering that very question, we’ve teamed up with a friend of ours who knows a fair bit about running his dogs – but, most importantly, he knows a hell of a lot about what to look for when buying a new bike.

Due to some commercial sensitivities, our friend has asked to remain anonymous, so for the duration, they will be referred to as “Benjen” (‘cus who doesn’t like a mild Game of Throne references, ey?).

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Our collaboration with Benjen takes shape in the form of an interview:

Q: Hi Benjen, thank you for taking the time to talk to us today. Usually, at this point, we’d ask a few background questions so our readers get an understanding of your experience and knowledge, but with the unfortunate need for anonymity, this is a little tricky. So, let’s go basic – in as much detail as you’re willing to give, how much experience do you have running dogs, bikejoring and in cycle-tech in general.
A: Hey guys, it’s my absolute pleasure to help you out – and sure, apologies for the anonymity thing but, y’know, needs must. I’m gonna have to keep it real vague to stop some privy listeners from putting 1+2 together and making 10, so…four-seasons or so running dogs and bikejoring, and err …(long pause)… about 15 years on/off in the bike game with something of a full-time commitment in the last five or so.

Q: Okay, so it’s pretty fair to say you know your way around a bike?
A: Yep, I won’t go as far as to say “it’s my job”, but it may as well be.

Q: Great, so you are the guy for the job. So, we’re just gonna sling this at you. I need a new bike for bikejor, what should I get?
A: I knew what we were gonna get in to here, but how do I even answer that? I’m gonna have to throw this back to you. I need more information, so how much off-road riding experience do you have? How good are your bike skills? Are you experienced, or a newbie? How many dogs are you running? What sort of dogs are you running? Where do you live? What’s the weather usually like? Are you racing?

Q: Okay sorry, that was mean of us. We didn’t really expect a holy grail answer. But that answer really opens up a lot of the problems with this question. It really is too open ended. Is it possible to give us a short flow-chart type synergy to help people in the market for a new bikejor machine get going in the right direction? Start us with a few basics, and together we can try and produce some sort of logical answer.
A: I think that’ll work. So, back to basics. Vital point – you need good brakes. That is absolutely the most critical and basic function for bikejor. Sliding in very closely after that, you need something that is structurally sound. If buying second-hand or from anywhere other than a reputable bike-specific store, it’s very advisable to get a bike-specific store to review your purchase to ensure its safety. The slightest loose bolt could cause a major incident, especially where dogs are involved.

Q: Absolutely, safety should always be the first priority. You mentioned “good brakes”, disc brakes are usually quoted as the standard, is that always the way?
A: As a casual observer you’d have to agree, but bad disc brakes exist too. In truth, very good ‘vee’ brakes are probably better in dry conditions than lower-end disc options. That said, they are very rarely seen in modern setups. An intermediate-level hydraulic disc brake should be the go-to minimum. Cable-actuated disc brakes are not all that reliable but do have the advantage of being easy to maintain. Never discount a hydraulic rim-brake such as a Magura – but again, these are now fairly rare in wild.

Q: Right – so disc brakes aren’t the only way, but they are the most likely solution by the sounds of it. Let’s hit up the next two big-points; suspension and wheel size.
A: Wheel size is a new-born monolith all of its own. Let’s simplify now, and diversify where needed later. So, wheel size options are…26″, 27.5″, 29″, Plus and Fat.

26″ is basically now old-money – some great deals to be found second hand, but not advisable to buy new – compatible wheelsets and tyres are becoming scarcer each year.

27.5″ this is the new 26″ – it’s fun, poppy and easy to control. They’re better around the bends and generally more manoeuvrable.

29″ers are fast, grippy and stable. It’s got to be the choice for most MTB racing, wether it’s right for you and your dogs is another question. They’re brilliant in a straight-line and over rough terrain, but cornering and muscling them around can be tricky. Shorter riders often struggle more on 29″ers.

Plus – the new kids on the block, in most instances they’re a half-way house between 27.5″ and 29″. Can provide excellent grip in the dry, and really smooth over rough terrain. Early tests showed tyre choice can be prohibitively limiting, and punctures can become an issue. There are some more niche variations in the Plus market, but on the whole, avoid unless you know what you’re dealing with.

Fat – this is the outside-of-the-box option. Consider these an ATV without an engine. Genuine go-anywhere machines, but not one for the speed merchants out there. Brilliant in soft conditions, but many for sale are much for the looks and not performance after a surge in popularity over recent years. Maintenance can be costly, with a limited choice in components.

And, err…what was the other part of that question?

Q: Suspension?
A: Right! Sorry. Yeah, so, the default go-to is a hardtail mountain bike with front-suspension forks for most bikejorers. I’m inclined to agree this is absolutely the best option for the 99%. People riding on very smooth terrain, or with fat/plus size tyres might seek a fully-rigid option, but that could become limiting when racing. Full-suspension bikes are seen at races but typically aren’t the most efficient. However, there are a couple of events where a short-travel XC-specific full suspension bike would likely be advantageous, but it’s unlikely worth the investment as it’d be redundant most of the time. Rear shocks and pivot-bushings are a huge maintenance expense for full-suspension riders, unless you really struggle without a rear-shock, it’s just not worth it.

Q: Awesome. That’s great so far. So once people have made a decision on their requirements for brakes, wheelsize and suspension. What’s next?
A: We’re really approaching the geek-out area now. There’s a lot of bikes out there that, on paper, look pretty much identical, but maybe hundreds of thousands of pounds apart in price. Most of the time this is down to brand, quality and materials used – everyone knows carbon fibre is the modern-day material, but it comes with a tomorrows-world price tag.

Q: And carbon fibre for bikejor? Yay? Nay?
A: It’s a contencious issue. To the unfamiliar, it seems like a great option if you can afford it – it’s lighter and pro racers use it so it must be good right? Well…to a point. I would rather take out a bike that weighed 2kg more, with a higher spec-list than a lower-specced carbon version. Speed and weight are related, but there’s so many marginal gains to be had in mountain bike componentry, having a cheaper carbon (£2k is cheap for carbon – as a benchmark) bike is very unlikely to give you any gains over an equivalently priced steel or alluminium frame. Carbon fibre products are now extremely strong, but they act very differently when damaged. Damaged carbon has a knack for failing compleltly. It doesn’t bend, it just unravvels in to nothing. If you’re prone to crashing, I wouldn’t recommend.

Q: Do you use any carbon on your setup(s)?
A: Handlebars, that’s it. Just because carbon bars have a vibration reduction quality to them which can stop arm pump etc. No other reason.

Q: We’ve talked continuosly about mountain bikes. Is that the only option?
A: It’s the only sensible option. [laughs] No, but seriously – if you had very good bike handling skills, and a very fast dog, then a cyclocross may be favourable for racing higher-speed events with long straights etc. Overall though, mountain bikes are the way to go for most.

Q: Perfect, perfect. So, to finish off, can you recommend some specific bikes to people? Maybe at incremental price-points and for different approaches?
A: Sure, as it’s impossible to really give a you should buy X, Y or Z option, I’ve put together a few bikes from this years Kona and Cannondale ranges that should help people understand what spec and price points to look for. Both brands certainly aren’t discount or budget options, so these aren’t cheap bikes – but they also aren’t in the ’boutique’ part of the industry where you’re more or less just paying for name/reputation. Basically, these are all very much middle-ground.

At the lower/middle end, I’ve selected a Cannondale Trail 1 L, this bike is pretty much spot-on the money for what you’re getting. Whilst not the lightest, the spec list is comprised of pretty well-tested components meaning reletively hassle-free bikejoring. More Information: http://amzn.to/2uz6FZ2

At the upper/middle end, I’ve selected a Kona Honzo AL, a 29er with slack-geometry. This blurs the lines a little, taking the fast rolling 29er wheels but with really confidence-insipiring control in the geometry. This would make a fantastic progressor bike for those getting really in to the sport. More Information: http://amzn.to/2tCX7rA

Now, there’s no ‘top-end’ or ‘world class’ option coming here, as I’ve been told we’re saving that for a later article, so, two out-the box options to finish. I said earlier that fatbikes were a great option but finding the right ones could be difficult. Well both of these offerings from Kona are absolutely trick. If you’d like a bit of fat in your life, it’s almost certainly gotta be one of these. It’s the Kona Wo and the Kona Wozo – there’s a couple key differences between the two. The Wo is a little more adventure based, and the Wozo designed around trail centres. If it were me, just using for bikejor, I’d go for the Wo (I’ve seen a few lovely examples selling second hand for less than half-price in recent weeks) – but, if you want to use the bike for some trail-slaying too, the Wozo gives you a bit extra in the capability area (albeit with a minor weight penalty).
More Information: Kona Wo – http://amzn.to/2uz24pG| Kona Wozo – http://amzn.to/2uzA598

Q: We love those choices, I’ll be having a look at that Honzo later for sure. I’m not sure about the fatties yet, but that’s just a bias on looks alone. You’re absolutely correct, we will be producing a ‘dream bikejor bike’ article based off of the ideas Benjen has shared with us today, so stay tuned for that. Benjen, thank you very much for joining us once again. Until next time…
A: It has been my pleasure, I look forward to collabing with you guys again, and hopefully at some point I can get you guys over on my channel. Thanks for reading!

 

 

We’ve compiled this list using our own knowledge and a little scratching around the internet, with an extra thank you to Rawfeeding Rebels, who have some Grad-A information when it comes to canine diets.

Fruits

Remember to always remove any stones, pits or pips from any fruit before giving it to your dog – without exception. With that understood, here is a comprehensive (but not complete) list of fruits you can give to your husky;

• Apple
• Banana
• Pear
• Blackberry
• Strawberry
• Raspberry
• Blueberry
• Kiwi
• Cherry
• Melon
• Mango
• Papaya
• Peaches
• Plum
• Apricot
• Cranberry

It is recommended that you do not feed fruits with their regular meals, and not up to one-hour before, and not for four-hours afterwards. This is advised because fruits have a different digestion rate to most meats, dog food and vegetables. Mixing these together could lead to discomfort or even a very sick dog.

Vegetables

• Beans
• Beetroot
• Broccoli
• Carrot
• Cauliflower
• Chard
• Courgette
• Dandelion greens
• Marrow
• Parsnip
• Peas
• Kale
• Spinach
• Sprouts
• Squashes
• Sweet potato
• Swede
• Turnip
• Yams

For detailed information on what foods are and aren’t good for your dogs, check out Rawfeeding Rebels.

This has always been the most controversial topic of husky ownership. It’s the one topic where everyone thinks their view is the correct one and that any contradicting view is completely wrong and either dangerous or cruel.

We do not advocate allowing Siberian Huskies to go off-lead in most public places. But that is just our opinion. What we’re looking to achieve here is explaining why this train of thought exists, in an impartial way, so you’re aware of the facts before making your own decisions.

What makes them so bad off-lead?

Well, the most-cited reason is a lack of recall. In reality however, huskies can be taught recall almost as easily as any other breed. The real problem lies in their ancestry and native urges.

Things that are true of most Siberian Huskies; they love to run, they are stubborn, and they have a determined prey-drive. It is primarily these attributes alone that result in huskies not being good off-lead. Once any of these urges kick-in, selective hearing is almost certain to follow – making all of that hard work during recall training ineffective. You should of course still go through regular recall training with your dogs in case of an emergency situation.

Why do they want to run?

It’s pretty obvious when you think about it; the breed has been developed over hundreds of years for the purpose of pulling sleds. It’s pretty safe to assume that those dogs with the stronger urge and ability to run would have been selected to breed and improve their lineage. Many generations of selective breeding has resulted in huskies we know today; dogs who just want to run!

Why are they stubborn?

A huskies stubbornness is again a a result of selective breeding, and is genuinely considered an attractive trait, especially for a lead dog. Of course, stubbornness in and of itself is not very helpful, but huskies have been bred to think for themselves, which manifests itself as a stubborn nature. Sled dogs that are capable of thinking for themselves were proffered and utilised in their native lands, as they were able to prevent a sled going on to unsafe terrain, such as melting ice. It’s a fantastic attribute to have when attached the front of a sled. Not so much when running free across the British countryside.

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Why do they have such a strong prey drive?

The cause for huskies immense prey drives is a little more obscure. It’s frequently referenced as being that their in someway more primitive or somehow closer related to wild wolves than breeds that have developed elsewhere. This has been proven not to be the case. 

The most plausible reason for it is more interesting, and believable. During the transition that saw wild canines eventually become the modern husky, their relationship with humans differed significantly from that of other breeds until relatively recently.

Whilst most established breeds, and their descendants, had been fully cared for and fed by their humans for potentially thousands of years, huskies have not until the last few centuries. Prior to this, the native people that used huskies for sled work and transport would only feed and house dogs during the winter months when they required them to transcend the snowy wilderness. During the summer months, the dogs would be set free to roam and fend for themselves.

It stands to reason that the better hunters would be the most likely to survive throughout their time fending for themselves. Leading to dogs with the heightened impulse to hunt that we see today.

It’s safe to say that most dogs today would still be capable of fending for themselves should they be required to, it’s just that a husky’s basic instinct to do so is a little more fresh in their memory.

My dog doesn’t do any of these things, are they an exception?

There are exceptions to the rule, some huskies are just born different. Others have other tendencies which over-rule all of the above. But the chances are, yours are no different, you just haven’t seen their trigger yet. The sad reality of many off-lead huskies is, that when their trigger does eventually kick-in, it’s too little, too late.

We hear many stories along the lines of; my husky has always been great off-lead for many years, but one day thy just took-off. Too often to be found having been hit by traffic, or shot by a farmer protecting their livestock.

Should I ever allow my Siberian Husky off-lead?

We would encourage all husky owners to provide their dogs with occasional off-lead exercise provided it can be done within a fully enclosed and inescapable area.

Huskies are notorious escape artists, so what qualifies as secure and enclosed really depends on each individual dog, and you would always be wise to be cautious when deciding if an area is suitable.

WINTER IS COMING! And at one point or another, most Siberian Husky owners will come across the idea of running their dogs as a form of exercise – after all, it’s what they’ve been bred to do.

Here we’ll provide a rough guide to running your Siberian Husky, and get you pointing in the right direction.

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Equipment

Like with most new sports, there is some initial financial outlay. That said, if you buy the right items initially, it can be a relatively low-cost activity. (Provided you can resist the urge to buy new harnesses on a weekly basis.)

Dog Harnesses

Your dog(s) will need a suitable harness to run in. Suitability in this sense can be split equally between purpose, and fitment.

You will need a harness for the explicit purpose of pulling, most pet shops will not stock these, so you will need to find a dedicated retailer. Fortunately in the UK there are now a number of real stores you can visit as well as numerous well-respected online retailers.

Once you’ve decided which harness you want to use, you’ll need to work out what size to buy. Most suppliers can provide you with a guide as to how to measure your dog to work out what size, but if in any doubt, and if it all possible – it is often best to visit a store with your dog so they can take the measurements for you.

Lines

You will need an appropriate running ‘line’ for any running activity. These can vary from a simple bungee-lead style, all the way up to race-team gang-lines. Provided what you purchase is stated as being suitable for scootering, bikejoring, etc then you shouldn’t have any real issues here. We would always recommend buying products from a reputable vendor to ensure quality, as loose dogs are a nightmare for any husky owner.

Bikejor Arm

In most cases you will require a bikejor arm/antenna to keep your lines out of the way of the front wheel. This applies to both bicycles and scooters – although some scooters may come with integrated variants as standard.

Because this kit is very use-specific, we don’t have any real preference in terms of make or manufacturer. Instead, we would urge you to match up a bikejor arm to your bike or scooter. For example, an arm that straps to the top-tube of a bicycle will not be very effective on a scooter – because the angle overhanging the wheel will then be too steep. If you were to use your bicycle for commuting or other recreational activity without your dogs, then you may wish to be with one that is easily detachable. Some arms attach around the middle of a bikes head tube or headstock – before buying these, it is important to check that you have enough space to accommodate this, as many modern bicycles do not.

Your Wheels

Scooter, bicycle, rig; these are the main three options. Which one you should choose (if you don’t already have one) depends largely on how many dogs you would like to run.

1 Dog

Bicycle or scooter would be appropriate with a single dog. Which is most appropriate really comes down to what yourself feels most in control of. If you’re a keen cycling enthusiast, then a bike probably makes more sense. If you’re not very well balanced on a bicycle, then a scooter would probably make a better choice. Food for thought.

2 Dog

Scooter is the most frequently opted for when running two dogs. Although both other options are commonly seen too.

If you are lightweight and have strong dogs, there is no reason you would struggle on a rig, but if you are on the heavy side and your dogs may need a helping hand, a scooter or bike may be the better choice.

Traditionally bikejoring with two dogs has been frowned upon because of the increased danger to the user. That said, it is now becoming a more common format in rallies and races, so it is being done. We wouldn’t recommend a novice cyclist to do this, only those with a high degree of confidence in their bike-control abilities and their equipment should be encouraged to do so.

3+ Dogs

For safeties sake, we have to recommend that you run higher numbers of dogs only on a rig. We’re not saying it’s not being done on scooters or bikes, but it’s certainly not for the beginner.

Expectations

You have sled-dogs that can easily travel 40 miles per day at an average of 10+ mph – right? Well err, no – not quite.

All of the above is true of well trained and conditioned dogs living in cold climates, but the chances are; your pet huskies are-not, can-not and will-not do that.

The majority certainly do have the urge to run, but if they have never done it before they may well tire easily, so limit your expectations of what your dogs will do in the beginning. Chances are, you couldn’t wake up tomorrow and run a marathon having not trained, so there’s no reason why your dogs should either.

It’s important to introduce them to it gradually. Start off with short distances, even if they don’t seem tired. You need to keep their interest so they keep wanting more, building your distance and pace slowly. If you do too much too soon, you may well end up with a husky who sees running simply as a chore.

Safety

The Dogs Come First

There are always some inherent dangers when running dogs at speed, so you just need to do everything you can to prevent an incident. Properly fitting harnesses, quality equipment and well-maintatined wheels are key points. Properly adjusted and working brakes are one of the most important, especially when teaching dogs new to the sport.

Running Conditions

Here’s our quick guide to appropriate running conditions in the UK, using information recommended by the sports governing bodies.

Personal Safety

It should go without saying that, you need a helmet. But eye-protection, gloves and even elbow/knee pads and other items of body armour are increasingly being used by budding mushers.

Location & Insurance

The laws are sketchy at best regarding running dogs, especially when using more specific equipment such as scooters or rigs. In short, there are no rules directly relating to it. However there are many animal drafting laws still present from years gone-by which could potentially land you in hot-water should you fail to run responsibly.

The preferable course of action is to get involved with a club; UCSC, BSSF, SHCGB are just a few to mention – and communicate with them about where you are best to do it and how to obtain the correct insurance policies so that you and your dog(s) are fully covered.

Many people acquire permits for Forestry Commission land or permission from military areas in order to use their land/facilities. Talking to individuals in your area would be the best place to start.

Helpful Resources

Suppliers

Hooner – http://www.hoonerpetsupplies.com

Snowpaw Store – http://www.snowpawstore.com/

SASS – http://www.sassdogequipment.co.uk/

K9 TrailTime – http://www.k9trailtime.com/

Trail Baby – https://www.facebook.com/trailbabysleddog.k9gear/photos_stream?tab=photos_albums

White Forest Dogs – http://www.whiteforestdogs.co.uk/

Icy Paws – http://icypaws.co.uk/

Sporting Bodies

UCSC – http://www.ucsc.org.uk

BSA – http://www.britishsleddogactivities.co.uk

SHCGB – http://siberianhuskyclub.org.uk

BSHRA – http://www.huskyracing.org.uk

Canicross Midlands – http://www.canicrossmidlands.co.uk

SSHC – http://scottishshc.org.uk

SDAS – https://sleddogassociationofscotland.wordpress.com

*Okay, sorry, sorry, sorry.

Unfortunately, right now, this isn’t true. But there has been a petition in the works for a while now that is getting close to having this issue raised within UK parliament. Once again, we’re sorry for luring you in like this BUT whilst we’ve got your attention, it’d be a great help if you could sign this petition to help but a stop to our rescue crisis in the coming years. Just click the link below!

https://www.change.org/p/government-breeders-must-apply-for-and-aquire-a-licence-to-breed-a-litter-of-dogs