What should I feed My Siberian Husky?

Feeding time can be a challenging experience for many husky owners. Huskies largely have a slim appetite for dogs of their size, as a result they can also afford to be very picky.

Here we’ll explain why your dog might be being a bit choosey when it comes to their dinner, and how best to combat that.

For the most part, we split dog food options in to two categories; processed and natural.

Why is my dog so fussy?

Siberian Huskies have been relied upon for hundreds of years to transport their handlers across miles and miles of harsh winter landscape. In these conditions, food is scarce and difficult to transport in bulk, meaning the less food a dog requires, the more practical the dog becomes. As a result, through years of breeding for these positive traits, huskies have become hyper-efficient at functioning on minimal amounts of food.

In addition, huskies are currently thought to be the only animal on the planet that has full-control over their metabolism, enabling to change how much energy they use up depending on the task at hand.

So, are they actually fussy?

Well yes, at least we think so. In our experience huskies really do enjoy the finer things in life – but don’t confuse that with being the most expensive.

It’s their fussiness along with their ability to go a very long time on very little food that makes them exceptionally difficult to coax in to eating good regular meals.

Their fussiness is not always drawn from simply ‘wanting’ something better, often it’s because the ingredients in their food isn’t really food to them at all. Ask yourself, what food stuffs are available to them in arctic conditions – it’s proteins and fats, and really nothing else. So a meal that has a high grain content, or proteins from alternative sources may very well to them seem synthetic – and no-one wants to eat plastic for dinner, right?

But be aware…

With all that said, a dog will only starve itself for so long under normal conditions – should your dog be rejecting food completely we must suggest seeking the advice of your vet.

Processed Dog Foods

Processed dog foods are what 99% of the population would consider to be the only type of real dog food. This is primarily made up of dried kibble products, and canned meat varieties.

Alarmingly, the majority of products available in this category bare little resemblance to what a husky really requires to stay fit and healthy. The majority of items are grain-based which brings in a number of potential health concerns (see Could there be a medical reason? below).

Of course processed dog foods are very convenient and easy to purchase, so for some this really will be the only option. We always recommend doing your own research prior to making any changes to your dogs lifestyle. As a general rule we’d advise to select a dog food that is grain-free and lists real meat at the main bulk ingredient, we believe that meat derivatives do not provide the required nutritional value.

For a detailed look at the history and composition of modern processed dog food, we found the following video to be a real eye-opener.

You can find specific information about the quality of your current processed dog food at All About Dog Food.

Natural Dog Foods

Don’t be confused by supermarket labels and marketing, the only really ‘natural’ dog foods are fresh (or frozen) pieces of meat, bone, offal and anything else that comes along with it. What we’re really talking about here is RAW feeding.

RAW feeding as a practice is rapidly growing right now, with more and more options seemingly available every week. Switching dogs over to a raw diet has seen fantastic changes for some, everything from coat condition to behaviour has noted to be improved.

In order to raw feed effectively, it is important to understand specifically what types of meat a dog requires for a balanced diet – simply feeding supermarket chicken-wings for life will not suffice. For those that wish to start out straight away, without having the time to become a RAW expert, a number of companies are now offering ‘complete’ raw meals which can be a great way to see if it’s the right thing for you and your dog.

Like with processed foods, there will be some raw products that you dog is not suited to, whether it results in a dodgy stomach, or a full-blown allergy – so monitor any changes carefully to work out what is the best for your dog.

We will produce more articles taking in to account our own experiences with RAW feeding very soon, but in the mean time we recommend you visit Rawfeeding Rebels for more information.

Could there be a medical reason?

Absolutely, and if you suspect as much a trip to the vet should always be the first port of call.

That said, Siberian Huskies in particular are prone to a few ailments that a lot of vets are unfamiliar with, thus making them hard to diagnose.

In particular Zinc Deficiency or ZRD is a condition that plagues many huskies and their owners as finding a treatment or solution that works can be difficult.

How is Zinc Deficiency related to my huskies diet?

The truth is ZRD is not completely understood at this point, there are many theories which prove to be correct in the majority of cases – but we are yet to receive a one-fits-all solution to this condition.

A popular theory is that huskies become zinc deficient because the zinc that enters their digestive system through their regular food becomes unusable in certain circumstances. It is thought that when fed a diet with any grain-content, the zinc elements bind to those in the grain during the manufacturing process, as dogs in general cannot properly process grain, and huskies seemingly less-so, the zinc is passed through with the grain as a waste product and never utilised by the body.

Always keep in mind that these theories are just that, and whilst it has proved to be true and effective in many cases – there are also many instances of huskies on grain-free diets suffering from the same condition.

What should I do now?

If you’re still a bit confused about what to feed your dog, we recommend talking to other owners and breed experts in your area to narrow your choices. In addition, if there’s any specific you’d like to know or want us to cover please leave a comment on this article and we’ll respond as best we can.

A Small Plea

Throughout this month, all revenue gained by our website will be donated to help the mushers affected by the Alaskan wildfires, many of whom have to evacuate their dogs and abandon their homes. You can help raise the money we make by giving our page a Like on Facebook, and sharing this article with your friends.

Help Us Help Willow Fire Support Group UK

Today we received a huge amount of interest in our article on the Willow Fire Support Group UK and their great fundraising efforts to help the mushers affected by the Alaskan wildfires.

In doing so, we took more revenue today than any other in our websites’ short history. We’d like to donate all the revenue we made today and every penny our website generates throughout the month of July to this fantastic cause.

As an informative website, we make our humble profits when you great people read our posts, Like our Facebook page and even more so when our articles are shared online.

So please spend a few minutes out of your day to help further our efforts to gift the Willow Fire Support Group UK as big a donation as possible.

Click here to find us on Facebook.

Click here to find out more about the Willow Fire Support Group UK.

Alaskan mushers given $65,000 dollars by UK fundraising team

Since mid-June, Alaska has been plagued by devastating wildfires throughout these dry summer months. So damaging have these fires been, that many mushers have been forced to perform emergency evacuations of their dogs, and abandon their homes.

In a heart-felt response to their trauma, a group of UK mushers and sled-dog enthusiast pitched together to try and raise a few hundred pounds through charity auctions and raffles on Facebook. Included in their admin team was British ex-pat Iditarod & Yukon Quest veteran Rob Cooke, which no-doubt greatly helped raise both the profile and funding of the effort.

So generous were both the items being auctioned, and the bids they gained that this week it has been confirmed that a massive $65,000 (approx. £41,000) has been raised to help our fellow mushers across the pond.

We’d like to give great congratulations to every individual in that group, regardless of their efforts, but in particular a huge THANK YOU to the admin team and organisers who helped put this together, for otherwise it simply would never have been so successful.

Fantastic work UK, keep it up.

Visit the Willow Fire Support Group UK on Facebook.

UPDATE: Thanks to the great responsive we’ve had online to this story, we are donating our July proceeds to this fantastic cause. Click here to find out what we’re doing and how you can help.

Huskies of Instagram

Here are 10 of our favourite husky-themed Instagram posts we found this week…

A photo posted by Mika (@huskymika) on

A photo posted by Anuko (@huskyanuko) on

A photo posted by @huskyjinaa on

A photo posted by Michelle (@husky_trio) on

A photo posted by Husky Love (@husky_love896) on

Product Review: Windog Bikejor/Scooter Arm Attachment

The bikejor and scooter antena arm from Canadian mushing company Windog has to be one of the most user-friendly on the market. One of our team ram with this arm participating in bikejor last season, so we’ve got all the ‘need to know’ facts before you purchase.

Copyright Windog Mushing

Let’s start off with the cost, in the UK this arm is available from Snowpaw Store in the UK at a reasonable £24.99 (at time of writing). This makes it one of the cheaper options on the market, without out it being ‘too-cheap’.

The construction is pretty simple, it consists of a single moulded piece of hardwearing flexible resin, dubbed Acoflex, coated in a water resistant rip-stop fabric, to product both bike/scooter and attachment from damage.

Along with the aforementioned, it houses a looped rope (seen above in green, although colours do vary) – this is the point at what you thread your your running line through, to prevent it coming in to contact with the wheel. Always remember that your line should be attached directly to the person or frame, and never attach to the arm itself – it is not an anchor point.

Attaching the device to your frame is reasonably simple, it utilises a simple locking-nut and bolt system, which you undo completely to seat the flexible band around the desired location. There are two pre-drilled holes which can be used to  vary the tightness of the wrap around your frame.

How does it perform?

In terms of performance and durability we have no complaints (bar what we mention later on – which is circumstance specific). The Windog Bikejor/Scooter Arm is certainly in a league of its’ own when it comes to ease of use, and took a whole season of abuse without so much as scratch.

Many of the dogs used when testing this arm were rookies and young recruits, meaning quite a lot of unexpected dives off the trail looking for squirrels and other wildlife, so rest assure that this is without-doubt, very flexible indeed.

One concern of many bikejor enthusiasts is if their attachment could cause any damage to the bike – we can confirm that this didn’t leave a single scratch, rub-mark or any discolouration to the frame or components…the same cannot be said for the dogs. Although we would always advice the use of helitape should you be very partial to your paintwork.

Any negatives to consider?

Bicycle Geometry

Now bare with us here, we’ll try not to get too technical. Because there are only two pre-determined sizes for the frame attachment, it does mean that it is more suitable to some frame styles more than others.

If your frame has a 3.5″+ of clear space around the steerer-tube (see image below), then this product is almost certainly going to be a perfect fit.

Screen Shot 2015-07-02 at 00.56.38

If your frame doesn’t resemble the above, and either has less space between the top-tube and down-tube – or they are fused completely then you have a few options available to you.

If your frame has a gap, but it’s a bit smaller than the width of the attachment, it can be possible (with some careful persuasion) to bend the attachment in to place, this can result in a snug fit which in rare circumstances is better than having more adequate space  – however it is important to ensure you do not cause any damage to your cycle/scooter or the attachment itself.

If the gap is simple too small – or you have no gap at all, you can place the attachment around your stem, below the handlebars (see below).

This is not our setup – Copyright Windog Mushing

Although the manufacturer provides this setup as a primary option, it’s success is largely down to the bikes setup. The length and rise of your stem, and the number of spacers below your stem fill greatly dictate how well this attachment point will sit on your bike or scooter.

During our test, it is safe to say that our short and low stem was far from the ‘ideal’ setup, however, it functioned as described without incident. That said, the arm is more susceptible to sagging toward the wheel under the load of the line in this position. In our experience, it didn’t had any odd effect – other than looking a bit droopy. But every bike is different, so you really need to ensure that there is no way that the line could drop in to the wheel – we found ours got closest during heavy-braking. It’s always worth testing out the best setup without your canine companions – wherever possible.

Storage

It’s pretty simple really – keep it stored flat and not under pressure, and keep it dry & clean. On one occasion we did neither of these things and ended up in a banana shaped bikejor-arm that had slightly rusty nuts. No fault of the product in our opinion, just something to be aware of.

Final Thoughts

We realise that the negatives here might sound like a big deal, but in reality they really aren’t. What makes the Windog Bikejor Antena so great, is it’s simplicity – inherently, simple ideas are often limited in some way, so it’s about weighing up if it is the right solution for you. We’d have no hesitation in recommending it – just ensure it works for your setup.

What is a Siberian Husky?

The internet is awash with misidentification of this beautiful breed, even knowledgeable and experienced expedition makers have been known to make mistakes – or at least a slip of the tongue:

“…when I did go to Mongolia in actual fact the Mongol’s have mainly huskies and wolves, they don’t have dogs…”

Brian Blessed – QI (Series 9 – Episode 16 – Ice)

 Siberian Huskies are in fact dogs…

They hold no-closer relation to wolves than any other of our breeds. It is even often claimed that the Chihuahua has closer DNA to the wild wolf than any of the northern-breeds. We’re not entirely sure how true this statement is, and probably depends on an individuals scientific interpretation of the DNA data.

Non-the-less, it stands to reason that you shouldn’t have any pre-conceptions about Siberian Huskies based purely on their ‘wolf-like’ appearance…although they aren’t actually very wolf-like at all, but that’s for another day.

It is safe to assume that any physical traits a husky may posses that lead people to thinking it is a close relation to the wolf is simply genetic through environment, rather than from it’s origins. Their native environments are often the same.

Siberian Huskies, Samoyeds, and Alaskan Malamutes are all direct descendants from the ancient sled dog, used over 3000 years ago.  To put that in to perspective, the world’s favourite; the Labrador Retriever, was first recongnised in 1899.

Keep Your Dog Cool In Summer

Keeping your dog cool in the summer months can be critical to their well-being and overall health. Too many people are ignorantly guilty of putting their dogs lives in jeopardy because they don’t consider the affects of the summer sun on the surrounding environment.

How to prevent overheating

Dogs may overheat in a vast number of scenarios, however there are a set of most common mistakes everyone needs to be aware of:

Leaving Dogs In Vehicles

This has to be the biggest accidental offensive the general public are guilty of every year. A parked car in summer gains heat extremely rapidly, regardless of if the sun is shining directly upon it or not. Below is one of many examples available online as to how hot a car can get in a short period of time (courtesy of the RSPCA)

Dogs die in hot cars - RSPCA

Exercising in hot conditions

Whilst regular exercise is important to your dogs health, doing it when it is very warm can be the least healthy things you can do. Below are the three key areas to address when exercising your dog in warm conditions.

Surface Temperature

Most hard-wearing, and especially man-made surfaces, will adsorb and retain heat easily on hot days. This includes all roads, pavements, sidewalks, car parks and much more besides. Ideally, you should only walk your dog on natural surfaces during the warmer months, and grass lands and natural paths usually do not retain heat in the same way.

If walking your dog on pavements and similar surfaces is the only option, then you should check the temperature of the surface yourself before allowing your dog out on to it. The most common test we’ve found is; “press and hold the back of your hand to the ground for 3 seconds, if doing so is uncomfortable in any way, then it is not appropriate to allow your pet to walk on it either…”. We think that’s pretty simple and straight forward.

Water Stops

If you believe that exercising your dog when it is absolutely necessary, then ensuring frequent and plentiful water-stops are an absolute must. There is no timing guide for this as every dog is so different. Just give water stops frequently, if a dog does not drink, continue to give the stops regardless so at least to provide the opportunity.

Water stops don’t just mean an opportunity to drink, they can including swimming in appropriate locations, and also allow your dog to paddle their paws in water – even if just their drinking bowl – as this can provide effective cooling to their whole bodies.

Exertion Level

Whilst most dog owners see walking as the primary form of exercise, many sled-dog owners see running or working-in-harness as the preferable way to extract all of that husky energy.

It’s important to remember that when warm, anything more than a slightly stroll is a very quick route to overheating, see our info graphic below for the appropriate conditions for running your dog.

running-conditions

Signs of overheating

Not every dog will show symptoms of overheating in the same way, but the following most common signs should give you a good idea of what to look for.

  • High Body Temperature
  • Overall Weakness
  • Staggering About
  • Overly Thirst / Excessive Drinking
  • Eyes Appear Glazed-Over
  • Heavy Panting
  • Vomiting
  • Blood in Stools (Diarrhoea)
  • Bright or Dark Tongue and/or Gums*
  • Elevated Heart-rate
  • Drooling Excessively
  • Seizures
  • Unconsciousness

*Checking the tongue and gums can be an early indicator of overheating, and is also one of the easiest to check in the early stages.

How to keep dogs cool

  1. Do Not Shave Them; Here we are explicitly referring to huskies and other breeds with an active double-coat. Please check the advise of reputable breed experts before grooming your dog. For Siberian Huskies, they use the two layers of fur to get more air to their skin. Without a full coat, this is not possible and increases the risk of overheating.
  2. Permanent Access To Fresh Water; Nothing is more refreshing than fresh water straight from the tap.
  3. Cooling Technology; 21st Century dog owners have an abyss of choice when it comes to pet products. Now many manufacturers are producing cooling jackets, floor mats and toys to keep your dog cooler.
  4. Change Your Exercise Routine; Take them out before the sun rises, or after it has set. Whilst it is still warm, the noticeable drop in temperature will increase your pets want to get out and about. Still air caution and employ all the considerations listed above, including plenty of water stops.
  5. Listen To Your Dog; not in a Dr Doolittle kind of way, but they are very good at indicating their need for things provided you know what to look for. If your dog is restless when warm, it may not mean they wish to exercise – but that they cannot get comfy. Try to make them more comfortable, cooler and refreshed with fresh water before concluding that exercise really is the only way.
  6. Regulate Any Sunbathing; it may sound obvious, or even daft – but many dogs enjoy soaking up the rays, even when it’s a bit too warm to be doing so. When they just want to lie down and relax, ensure they are on a cool surface in a well-shaded area.

Running Conditions

If you want to run your Siberian Husky, you need to make sure than the conditions are suitable for their breed and abilities. Whilst we’d like to give you the answer to every possible scenario, that would take a very long time. Instead, here’s a quick info graphic with some basic stats to get you started on safely running your Siberian Husky in the right conditions.

running-conditions

 

Should I get a Siberian Husky puppy?

Whatever the breed, puppies are hard work. That is one thing you really need to remember. Beyond that their are pros and cons to getting a Siberian Husky as a puppy. The first thing you need to do is make sure you are ready for a Siberian Husky in any capacity, see our article; Should I get a Siberian Husky?

As at this point I’m sure you’re after quick snap answers, we’ve summarised the biggest pros and cons to getting a Siberian Husky puppy.

Pros

  • You get the ‘aww’ factor, people will want to speak to you and fuss your new family member.
  • Integration with other animals – if you have any other pets, a puppy is generally easier integrate in to your household, but this is only a positive in the short term.
  • You will know its history, any issues it encounters with other dogs, people or animals will be your first-hand knowledge.

Cons

  • Financial implications – generally speaking, puppies are more expensive. There’s vaccines, microchipping, neutering and training all to take it to account.
  • There’s lots of poop, wee and vomit – at it will be everywhere.
  • Training – do you have time and finances to deal with all of the initial training? All dogs benefit from training throughout their lives, however puppies need almost constant training and positive re-enforcement for their general behaviour, toilet habits and their interaction with people and other animals alike.
  • The most important social-development stages of a dogs life are in the first 3 months. If these stages are dealt with properly, it could lead to long-term problems.
  • You might get more than you bargained for – crossbreeds, poorly-bred and straight-out lies. It can be very difficult to identify the breed of a pup, so you may not end up with the pure-breed Siberian Husky you had hoped for. Even if the parents can be seen (which they should be), there’s no guarantee of your pups final size.
  • You cannot predict the temperament of the dog when grown up.
  • Appreciation – whilst this undoubtedly will vary from dog-to-dog, we have found that our rescue dogs have always been more appreciative of the things you do for them. Our pups can often be brattish in nature.

Have you got any questions?

If there’s something specific you’d like to know, use the comments box below to ask away and we’ll answer as best we can!